What is the first word that comes to your mind when you say 'South Silk'? It is Kanjivaram or Kanchipuram. Right? I cannot vouch for all women, but for most women, it is so. Kanchipuram saree is a type of south Indian weave that originated in the village of Kanchipuram.
Weaving Kanchipuram sarees is a tradition. It is a skill that is passed down from generation to generation. These silk sarees are also called Pattu sarees. In the state of Tamil Nadu, silk sarees are also called Pattu sarees.
The history of Kanjivaram saree dates back 400 years in history. Back in time, this saree was made from the finest of silk threads, namely, the mulberry threads. The reason why only mulberry silk threads were used because a pure kanjivaram saree decreed that there should be no broken threads within the length and breadth of the saree. This gave the saree a fine and soft texture. It also increased the durability of the Kanjivaram Pattu sarees. So, to weave the weft and the warp of the 9 yards, only mulberry silk was suitable. As this silk threads are the longest and also the finest.
Centuries back, there were no machines for weaving sarees. So, each kanchipuram saree was hand-loomed by craftsmen who were revered for their skills - weaving each of these pattu sarees took between two weeks to six months. The difference in time was because of the amount of zari weave that was to be woven on each saree.
Traditionally, some kanjivaram sarees would have a border that could range anywhere between three inches to eight inches. It took lesser time to finish a Kanchipuram saree that has zari weavings on just the border and the pallu. Time was much more needed when the weavers wove motifs of zari throughout the length and breadth of the drape.
Traditionally, Kanjivaram sarees had motifs like parrots, peacock, and various kinds of birds dominated the sarees. Other motifs like temples and mythological symbols were also common.
To weave a traditional Kanjivaram pattu saree, zari of only pure gold and silver were used. Initially, the ratio of gold and silver used to be half and half. These sarees were made form the finest of fabrics and metals, and hence, they were priced pretty high.
However, time has changed. And with time, there are now two broad categories of this saree. The first category is the pure Kanchipuram saree and the second one is the modern Kanchipuram saree.
What is The Difference you Ask?
A pure Kanjivaram saree, is still made of the best quality silk that is found in this land. The ratio of metal stands as such — 0.5% gold, 35% copper, and 40% silver. This ratio is the minimum to qualify the drapes as pure and traditional kanchipuram sarees. To further secure the customers from being duped, the govt. of Tamil Nadu attaches a GI tag to each saree that qualifies that maintains the standards.
Another way to say whether your modern-day kanjivaram saree is pure or not is to pass it through the ‘’burnt test’’. Yes, you read that right. Each saree comes with a few spare threads which it is made of. On burning a thread, if it burns down completely, then you have an original Kanchipuram saree in front of you. It the thread leaves a slightly sticky residue; then, you are looking at a fake one.
However, the weavers soon understood the soaring demand for the kanjivaram sarees. Even women of the middle classes wanted to drape on the beauteous creation called ‘kanjivaram’. To cater to the demand, weavers made kanchipuram designs on fabrics like georgette, tussar and other varieties of silk because the mulberry threads were a little beyond the means of the middle-class women. These sarees look as beautiful as the traditional kanjivaram sarees. Also, modern motifs that are contemporary in appeal is seen in the modern Kanchipuram sarees.
The change from tradition modern Kanjivaram saree is quite regulated by culture, heritage, the taste of people, and the govt. of Tamil Nadu. Although you might get to see many new motifs and designs on a kanjivaram saree, composition-wise, it is still nearer to its traditional self.
Weaving Kanchipuram sarees is a tradition. It is a skill that is passed down from generation to generation. These silk sarees are also called Pattu sarees. In the state of Tamil Nadu, silk sarees are also called Pattu sarees.
The history of Kanjivaram saree dates back 400 years in history. Back in time, this saree was made from the finest of silk threads, namely, the mulberry threads. The reason why only mulberry silk threads were used because a pure kanjivaram saree decreed that there should be no broken threads within the length and breadth of the saree. This gave the saree a fine and soft texture. It also increased the durability of the Kanjivaram Pattu sarees. So, to weave the weft and the warp of the 9 yards, only mulberry silk was suitable. As this silk threads are the longest and also the finest.
Centuries back, there were no machines for weaving sarees. So, each kanchipuram saree was hand-loomed by craftsmen who were revered for their skills - weaving each of these pattu sarees took between two weeks to six months. The difference in time was because of the amount of zari weave that was to be woven on each saree.
Traditionally, some kanjivaram sarees would have a border that could range anywhere between three inches to eight inches. It took lesser time to finish a Kanchipuram saree that has zari weavings on just the border and the pallu. Time was much more needed when the weavers wove motifs of zari throughout the length and breadth of the drape.
Traditionally, Kanjivaram sarees had motifs like parrots, peacock, and various kinds of birds dominated the sarees. Other motifs like temples and mythological symbols were also common.
To weave a traditional Kanjivaram pattu saree, zari of only pure gold and silver were used. Initially, the ratio of gold and silver used to be half and half. These sarees were made form the finest of fabrics and metals, and hence, they were priced pretty high.
However, time has changed. And with time, there are now two broad categories of this saree. The first category is the pure Kanchipuram saree and the second one is the modern Kanchipuram saree.
What is The Difference you Ask?
A pure Kanjivaram saree, is still made of the best quality silk that is found in this land. The ratio of metal stands as such — 0.5% gold, 35% copper, and 40% silver. This ratio is the minimum to qualify the drapes as pure and traditional kanchipuram sarees. To further secure the customers from being duped, the govt. of Tamil Nadu attaches a GI tag to each saree that qualifies that maintains the standards.
Another way to say whether your modern-day kanjivaram saree is pure or not is to pass it through the ‘’burnt test’’. Yes, you read that right. Each saree comes with a few spare threads which it is made of. On burning a thread, if it burns down completely, then you have an original Kanchipuram saree in front of you. It the thread leaves a slightly sticky residue; then, you are looking at a fake one.
However, the weavers soon understood the soaring demand for the kanjivaram sarees. Even women of the middle classes wanted to drape on the beauteous creation called ‘kanjivaram’. To cater to the demand, weavers made kanchipuram designs on fabrics like georgette, tussar and other varieties of silk because the mulberry threads were a little beyond the means of the middle-class women. These sarees look as beautiful as the traditional kanjivaram sarees. Also, modern motifs that are contemporary in appeal is seen in the modern Kanchipuram sarees.
The change from tradition modern Kanjivaram saree is quite regulated by culture, heritage, the taste of people, and the govt. of Tamil Nadu. Although you might get to see many new motifs and designs on a kanjivaram saree, composition-wise, it is still nearer to its traditional self.