Outer surface of a spoon is as follows.
This is the convex surface of an infant spoon, already fine sanded up to the grain number of 120. This process is not too awkward. Any flat sanding surface can do the job.
I actually use my belt sander, then followed by a rotary sanding device, with a tiny plastic drum covered with a cylindrical sanding paper. The latter is meant to obliterate ridges on the outer surface.
These ridges originate from being placed on a flat abrasive area for any length of time. There are usually half a dozen of them.
Making this convex surface as smooth as possible and evenly balanced when viewed from any direction is important. It is because the concave inner surface can only be hollowed out by feeling the remaining thickness by fingers as the inner mass is being removed.
If this convex surface, as a reference surface, is not properly perfected it is going to be anybody's guess what might result in terms of the inner concave surface. Naturally, remaining thickness differs from point to point across the entire spoon surface, but then it has to maintain symmetrical distribution when viewed top on and straight on at the spoon tip.
Having said all that, it is not that difficult. You only need an experience of 3, 4 years, I think.
Next photo is more problematic.
This is the roughened inner surface, roughened by a certain grinding piece. It is concave enough, but needs more treatment. You can use your fingers and a sanding paper, as the most primitive option.
You can also use all kinds of sanding/grinding instruments and associated bits. I normally use a few of them, depending on the extent of the concave surface to be created.
I must say I am still experimenting with them, after all these years... At the end of the day, though, it is the good old sand papers.
My gut feeling is that the best assistance will have to come from large spherical bits coated with either diamond or ruby grains. I want a minimum of 10 mm in diameter. Right now, it is a tall order, due to the limited availability of sufficiently thin axis of rotation.
Right now, my ruby bit has been clogged up and corrupted.
OK, I can go for thicker axes and yes, I am going that way, slowly, slowly...
I think this more or less completes my contribution to flat spoon making. I will talk about fully fledged spoons, later. For the moment take a look at what follows.
Above is sufficiently self-explanatory, I think.
These are simpler snack beds, upside down. Of these, 6 on the left have very short mahogany legs. When placed properly on a table there is little gap between the bed and the table.
Legs are effectively hidden away from view, with the net result that they look like floating. I think that is neat, actually epic! If nobody likes them I will still be liking them immensely...
This is the convex surface of an infant spoon, already fine sanded up to the grain number of 120. This process is not too awkward. Any flat sanding surface can do the job.
I actually use my belt sander, then followed by a rotary sanding device, with a tiny plastic drum covered with a cylindrical sanding paper. The latter is meant to obliterate ridges on the outer surface.
These ridges originate from being placed on a flat abrasive area for any length of time. There are usually half a dozen of them.
Making this convex surface as smooth as possible and evenly balanced when viewed from any direction is important. It is because the concave inner surface can only be hollowed out by feeling the remaining thickness by fingers as the inner mass is being removed.
If this convex surface, as a reference surface, is not properly perfected it is going to be anybody's guess what might result in terms of the inner concave surface. Naturally, remaining thickness differs from point to point across the entire spoon surface, but then it has to maintain symmetrical distribution when viewed top on and straight on at the spoon tip.
Having said all that, it is not that difficult. You only need an experience of 3, 4 years, I think.
Next photo is more problematic.
This is the roughened inner surface, roughened by a certain grinding piece. It is concave enough, but needs more treatment. You can use your fingers and a sanding paper, as the most primitive option.
You can also use all kinds of sanding/grinding instruments and associated bits. I normally use a few of them, depending on the extent of the concave surface to be created.
I must say I am still experimenting with them, after all these years... At the end of the day, though, it is the good old sand papers.
My gut feeling is that the best assistance will have to come from large spherical bits coated with either diamond or ruby grains. I want a minimum of 10 mm in diameter. Right now, it is a tall order, due to the limited availability of sufficiently thin axis of rotation.
Right now, my ruby bit has been clogged up and corrupted.
OK, I can go for thicker axes and yes, I am going that way, slowly, slowly...
I think this more or less completes my contribution to flat spoon making. I will talk about fully fledged spoons, later. For the moment take a look at what follows.
Above is sufficiently self-explanatory, I think.
These are simpler snack beds, upside down. Of these, 6 on the left have very short mahogany legs. When placed properly on a table there is little gap between the bed and the table.
Legs are effectively hidden away from view, with the net result that they look like floating. I think that is neat, actually epic! If nobody likes them I will still be liking them immensely...