It is my gut-feeling that I should not leave the topic of hashi making without some movies of the final stage.
Right now, I have 22 new pairs of 21 cm long beech hashies in addition to some 50 old pairs which are currently undergoing the process of renewed coating. Consequently, I am very unlikely to return to hashi making in the near future.
So, all in all, about time I recorded hashi sanding with some movies. Just to re-cap, earlier and easier stages they are basically the process of sanding the pieces into those with square cross-section and tapering all the way down the length.
Following 3 movies take it up from there.
The very first process is to sand away the 4 right angled edges, from the thinning portion of a hashi piece. In the following movie my fingers cover about 75% of the hashi length and keep pressing it evenly.
It is important that you sand away each of these 4 edges in the same amount of time. Naturally, you cannot use a timing device, so you just count time to yourself in so doing.
At this stage, it is not important that edges have been sanded perfectly into round cross-section. You can always repeat the same sanding procedure, as you will see.
Having done with the 4 edges you flip over the piece and start sanding the holding end of it in the same fashion. What is important here is that you do not go for a completely round cross-section. The holding end must have a square cross-section with slightly rounded edges. That is all you want.
Having finished with the holding end of the piece you want to sand more on the thinning portion so that desired hashi tip is created. It is a delicate job, to say the least.
You cannot rely on any measuring device. You just judge everything with your eye-balls. The only consolation comes from being able to compare the two pieces from time to time. Next movie is just showing that process.
Once you have done with the tip end of the piece the remaining job is to hand sand both ends, carefully. Actually, it is a very delicate sanding process.
With a piece of sand paper you move in a segmented spiral, up to the very end each time so that the sand paper always passes over the very tip of the piece. This is because you do not want sharp edges left anywhere near the tip, in particular, but not so much care is taken at the other holding end.
The holding end has a much larger semi-spherical shape to it and it is not that critical that it is perfectly shaped into a semi-sphere. I hasten to add, though, that I always try to be perfect in shape making.
OK, that is about it on hashi making. My curry spoons and infant spoons were immersion coated today. Another 9 times of coating will follow and in the meantime I will be fabricating some more spoons of various kinds, I think.
Right now, I have 22 new pairs of 21 cm long beech hashies in addition to some 50 old pairs which are currently undergoing the process of renewed coating. Consequently, I am very unlikely to return to hashi making in the near future.
So, all in all, about time I recorded hashi sanding with some movies. Just to re-cap, earlier and easier stages they are basically the process of sanding the pieces into those with square cross-section and tapering all the way down the length.
Following 3 movies take it up from there.
The very first process is to sand away the 4 right angled edges, from the thinning portion of a hashi piece. In the following movie my fingers cover about 75% of the hashi length and keep pressing it evenly.
It is important that you sand away each of these 4 edges in the same amount of time. Naturally, you cannot use a timing device, so you just count time to yourself in so doing.
At this stage, it is not important that edges have been sanded perfectly into round cross-section. You can always repeat the same sanding procedure, as you will see.
Having done with the 4 edges you flip over the piece and start sanding the holding end of it in the same fashion. What is important here is that you do not go for a completely round cross-section. The holding end must have a square cross-section with slightly rounded edges. That is all you want.
Having finished with the holding end of the piece you want to sand more on the thinning portion so that desired hashi tip is created. It is a delicate job, to say the least.
You cannot rely on any measuring device. You just judge everything with your eye-balls. The only consolation comes from being able to compare the two pieces from time to time. Next movie is just showing that process.
Once you have done with the tip end of the piece the remaining job is to hand sand both ends, carefully. Actually, it is a very delicate sanding process.
With a piece of sand paper you move in a segmented spiral, up to the very end each time so that the sand paper always passes over the very tip of the piece. This is because you do not want sharp edges left anywhere near the tip, in particular, but not so much care is taken at the other holding end.
The holding end has a much larger semi-spherical shape to it and it is not that critical that it is perfectly shaped into a semi-sphere. I hasten to add, though, that I always try to be perfect in shape making.
OK, that is about it on hashi making. My curry spoons and infant spoons were immersion coated today. Another 9 times of coating will follow and in the meantime I will be fabricating some more spoons of various kinds, I think.