大島紬と真綿紬を使い袷の左右非対称のアシンメトリー、片身変りの着物を創りました。
この着物の裏地は少し洒落な小紋の長襦袢地の通し裏です。
袖口には白のレースの袖口布を付けて袖裏の柄がちらりと透けて見える仕立てにしました。
片身変りの着物は着物地を二枚使うので身長の高い人や裄が長い方でも割り布を入れられるので仕立てる事ができます。
この着物の身丈は肩から4尺5寸5分（172ｃｍ）で裄は1尺8寸9分（71.44ｃｍ）です。
This is a versatile asymmetrical kimono made of Oshima tsumugi and Momen tsumugi.
The lining of this kimono is a through lining of a fashionable komon (long underwear).
The cuffs are lined with white lace cuff fabric, allowing the pattern of the sleeve lining to show through.
Because two pieces of kimono fabric are used for the kimono, even a tall person or a person with a long sleeve-crossing can tailor this kimono.
The length of this kimono is 172 cm from the shoulder and the distance from the sleeve to the sleeve is 71.44 cm. 岩佐和裁
IWASA WASAI
コットンこばやしさんの綿麻のキャンバス プリント生地で布の厚さは中厚です。
ふくろう、みみずく、カフェ ジェラート、さくらんぼ、アイスクリームの柄がプリントされています。
この生地を使い女物の単衣の着物を創りました。
この着物は草履から始まり帯や羽織やコートなど和物一色に揃えなくてもスニーカーやタートルネックのセーターやベルトなどカジュアルウェアと合せても全く
違和感なくお召しになれると思います。
鳥派の方などが集う鳥さんイベントにぴったしの着物です。
サイズは身長172ｃｍ、バスト90ｃｍ、ヒップ93ｃｍ、裄が72.58ｃｍ位の方を想定して創りました。
着物の寸法は身丈が肩から4尺6寸5分（175.8ｃｍ）、裄1尺9寸2分（72.58ｃｍ）、後幅8寸（30.24ｃｍ）、前幅6寸5分（24.57ｃｍ）、前腰幅6寸2分（23.44ｃｍ）、抱幅6寸（22.58ｃｍ）衽幅4寸（15.12ｃｍ）、合褄幅3寸8分（14.36ｃｍ）です。
背縫い無しで袖口布を付け、上前の衽に裏衽布を付けたり、内揚が無い代わりに裾ぐけ幅を2寸5分（9.45ｃｍ）位にするなど独自の工夫をしました。
衿はばち衿で共衿の下に衿芯を差し込めます。
着物の重さは1.2ｋｇです。
This is a medium-thick cotton-linen canvas print fabric from Cotton Kobayashi.
It is printed with patterns of owls, horned owls, cafe gelato, cherries, and ice cream.
I used this fabric to create a women's single-layer kimono.
This kimono can be worn without any discomfort when combined with casual wear such as sneakers, turtleneck sweaters, and belts, without having to wear an all-Japanese outfit starting with sandals, obi, haori, and coat.
This kimono is perfect for bird events where bird lovers gather.
The size was created assuming a person with height 172 cm, bust 90 cm, hips 93 cm, and sleeve length 72.58 cm.
The measurements of the kimono are length from the shoulder 175.8cm, sleeve width 72.58cm, back width 30.24cm, front width 24.57cm, front waist width 23.44cm, shoulder width 22.58cm, collar width 15.12cm, hem width 14.36cm.
I added some unique touches to it, such as attaching cuff cloth without sewing the back, attaching lining cloth to the collar of the upper front, and making the hem width about 9.45cm instead of having an inner hem.
The collar is a bat-type collar and a collar stiffener can be inserted under the collar.
The kimono weighs 1.2kg.
着物と羽織に必要な反物の長さは着物は単衣と袷仕立て共に12ｍ50ｃｍ位で同じですが羽織丈が95ｃｍ位の長羽織では羽織丈が単衣が10ｍ位で袷仕立ては12ｍ50ｃｍ位と違います。
そして着物や羽織を作る反物の色と柄と素材に区分けは無いと思います。
色や柄を除いた季節別の使われる反物は着物と羽織共に秋と冬と春はほぼ同じで夏のみ絽や紗などの夏物の反物を使います。
おそらくですけれど今は夏用の羽織や薄羽織を作る為の専用の反物は無く、長さが12ｍ50ｃｍの着物用の（着尺）を使うと思います。
当然ながら着尺地で薄羽織を作れば2ｍ50ｃｍの残り布が出ます。
今の長襦袢は単衣と胴単衣袖無双仕立てが殆どです。
使われる素材は着物や羽織と同様に秋と冬と春は同じで夏のみ紗や絽などの夏物を使います。
長襦袢地の長さは単衣が10ｍで袖無双銅単衣用が13ｍ50ｃｍ位です。
薄羽織はその名の通り透ける素材で作ります。
色や柄を除くと塵除け扱いになるので4月から10月まで着れると言われています。
岩佐和裁の薄羽織は以上の理由で夏物の長襦袢地で創りました。
とても薄くしなやかな感じで310ｇととても軽いです。
色はクリームと薄紫色の二種類
サイズは羽織丈が肩から2尺7寸（1ｍ2.1ｃｍ）で繰越が7分（2.646ｃｍ）、裄が1尺8寸1分（68.8ｃｍ）、袖幅が9寸3分（35.53ｃｍ）、袖山幅が9寸5分（36.29ｃｍ）、袖丈が1尺2寸5分（47.25ｃｍ）です。
合せた着物のサイズは身丈が肩から4尺4寸（166.3ｃｍ）繰越が5分（1.89ｃｍ）、裄1尺8寸（68.04ｃｍ）、袖幅9寸2分（34.78ｃｍ）、袖山幅9寸4分（35.53ｃｍ）、袖丈1尺3寸（49.14ｃｍ）です。
身長が162.5cmでバストが80cm、ヒップが89cm位の方を想定して創りました。
また羽織紐を取り付ける”乳”は身長が同じでも着方や体型により位置が異なり、その特定は試着としなければ難しいのであえて付けず、アクセサリーパーツのカニ冠を後付けするかクリップ付の羽織紐を用います。
絹100％の正絹です。 3万5千円で岩佐和裁で販売しています。 薄紫色の薄羽織のYoutubeのビデオはこちらです。
The length of fabric needed for kimonos and haori is the same for both hitoe and awase kimonos at about 12.5m, but for long haori, which have a haori length of about 95cm, the haori length is about 10m for hitoe and about 12.50cm for awase.
And I don't think there is any distinction in the color, pattern or material of the fabric used to make kimonos and haori.
Apart from color and pattern, the fabric used for each season is almost the same for both kimonos and haori in autumn, winter and spring, with summer fabrics such as ro or gauze being used only in summer.
I think that nowadays there are probably no special fabrics for making summer haori or thin haori, and kimono fabric with a length of 12.5m is used.
Naturally, if you make a thin haori from kimono fabric, you will have 2.5m of leftover fabric.
Most nagajuban today are made by HITOE or SODE MUSO DO HITOE.
The materials used are the same for autumn, winter and spring, just like kimonos and haori, but in summer only summer materials such as gauze and ro are used.
The length of the nagajuban fabric is 10m for nagajuban made by HITOE worn from June to September, and about 13m 50cm for nagajuban made by SODE MUSO DO HITOE worn from October to May.
As the name suggests, thin haori are made from a transparent material.
Apart from the color and pattern, they are treated as dust cover and are said to be wearable from April to October.
For the above reasons, Iwasa Wasai's thin haori are made from summer nagajuban fabric.
It is very thin and supple, and very light at 310g.
It comes in two colors, cream and light purple.
The size of the haori is 1m2.1cm from the shoulder, with a carry-over of 2.646cm, a sleeve width of 68.8cm, a sleeve width of 35.53cm, a sleeve cap width of 36.29cm and a sleeve length of 47.25cm.
The size of the matching kimono is 166.3cm in length from the shoulder, 1.89cm in shoulder width, 68.04cm in shoulder width, 34.78cm in sleeve width, 35.53cm in sleeve width, and 49.14cm in sleeve length.
It was made assuming a person of 162.5cm in height, with a bust of 80cm and hips of about 89cm.
Also, the "breasts" where the haori himo is attached will be in a different position depending on how it is worn and one's body type, even if the person is the same height, and it is difficult to determine this without trying it on, so we have not attached one and instead attach an accessory part called a crab crown later, or use a haori himo with a clip.
It is made of 100% pure silk. It is on sale at Iwasa Washio for 35,000 yen. Here is a Youtube video of the pale purple thin haori.
Kimono with a monster cat change pattern. 妖怪猫変化の着物
9月4日に投稿した記事にも書きましたが10月13日(日)10:00～17:00時に神楽坂化け猫フェスティバルが開催されます。
参加条件は猫をテーマに仮装している事と仮装姿を写真に撮られてもOKな人だそうです。
参加衣装に妖怪猫変化の着物は如何ですか？
昨年は10月15日（日）の開催で神楽坂の10:00～17:00時のお天気は快晴で気温は17℃から20℃だったそうです。
このぐらいの気候だと真夏の様に浴衣だけでは寒いと思いますが、木綿の単衣として重ね着すれば大丈夫だと思います。
着物のサイズは身長165ｍ、バスト86ｃｍ、ヒップ91ｃｍ、裄が68.796位の方を想定して創り、身丈が肩から4尺4寸７分（169ｃｍ）裄1尺8寸2分（68.8ｃｍ）、後幅7寸8分（29.48ｃｍ）、前幅6寸3分（23.81ｃｍ）です。
仕立て方はより単衣の着物に近い半胴抜き仕立て？です。
As I wrote in my September 4th post, the Kagurazaka Bakeneko Festival will be held on October 13th (Sun) from 10am to 5pm.
The conditions for participation are that you are dressed in a cat-themed costume and are okay with being photographed in costume.
How about wearing a monster cat kimono as your costume?
Last year, the event was held on October 15th (Sun), and the weather in Kagurazaka from 10am to 5pm was sunny with temperatures ranging from 17 to 20°C.
In this kind of weather, it would be cold to wear just a yukata, like in midsummer, but I think it would be fine if you layered it as a single layer of cotton.
The kimono is designed for someone who is 165cm tall, with a bust of 86cm, hips of 91cm, and sleeve length of 68.796cm, and the length from the shoulder is 169cm, sleeve length 68.8cm, back width 29.48cm, and front width 23.81cm.
The tailoring method is similar to that of a hitoe kimono, with a half-body cut.
過去の神楽坂化け猫フェスティバル様子がYoutubeにアップされてました。
Videos of past Kagurazaka Bakeneko Festivals have been uploaded to YouTube.
神楽坂 化け猫フェスティバル 2015 公式PV / Cat Halloween Festival Official Promo
https://youtu.be/EUVMgj7_LZs?si=6_5bPcCdho_QDOJc
神楽坂 化け猫フェスティバル 2023 Kagurazaka Bakeneko Festival 2023
https://youtu.be/6cX4VYb7g70?si=PNM0TSZSZ5-yV91y
そういえば、色無地の浴衣は見かけないし、ポケットが付いた着物はこの着物を創った後でやまとさんで販売しているのに気が付きましたが見かけない、単衣の着物だとよく話題に上がるのは居敷当、それならと背縫いを無くして居敷当を不要にした着物、これも見かけません。
そんな見かけない着物がこのフレンチリネンの着物です。60番手のリネン糸で織られているのでそこそこ薄く軽いです。
サイズは身丈（肩）163.3ｃｍ、裄68.04ｃｍ、袖幅38.934ｃｍ、肩幅29.106ｃｍ、後幅29.106ｃｍ、前幅23.058ｃｍです。
身長163ｃｍ、バスト81ｃｍ、ヒップ90ｃｍ位の方を想定して創りました。
水通しをして縮めてから仕立てたので自宅で洗濯出来ます。 岩佐和裁で2万８千円で販売しています。
Come to think of it, I have never seen a plain-colored yukata, and I noticed that Yamato was selling kimonos with pockets after making this kimono, but I have never seen any. One thing that is often talked about with hitoe kimonos is the ishikidate, but I have never seen any kimonos that do not require ishikidate by removing the back seam.
One such kimono that I have never seen is this French linen kimono. It is woven with 60-count linen thread, so it is quite thin and light.
The size is length (shoulder) 163.3 cm, shoulder width 68.04 cm, sleeve width 38.934 cm, shoulder width 29.106 cm, back width 29.106 cm, front width 23.058 cm.
I made it assuming a person who is about 163 cm tall, bust 81 cm, and hips 90 cm.
It was shrunk by running it through water before sewing, so it can be washed at home. It is sold at IWASA-WASAI for 28,000 yen.
ブルーのかすみ草柄の着物。A kimono with a blue baby's breath pattern.
このブルーのかすみ草柄の着物は布幅が110ｃｍの綿80％、麻20％のシーチング地で創りました。
昭和40年代以前に家庭で縫われた雰囲気のする気軽に着れる綿麻のお洒落普段着のイメージです。
衿は広衿で肩当布付で背縫いは無いです。
プリント柄で生地の裏側まで柄が染まっていないので直用して裏側が覗き見える処には袖口布、裏衽（上前のみ）歩くなどしてめくれて裏側が見えやすい裾は裾ぐけ幅を3寸（11ｃｍ）と太くしました。
簡易的な胴抜き風の仕立ての着物です。
着物のサイズは着物のサイズは身丈が肩から4尺4寸3分（167.5ｃｍ）、裄1尺8寸（68.04ｃｍ）、袖幅9寸8分（37.044ｃｍ）、肩幅8寸2分（30.996ｃｍ）、袖丈1尺4寸（52.92ｃｍ）、袖丸味2寸5分（9.45ｃｍ）、後幅7寸7分（29.106ｃｍ）、前幅6寸1分（23.058ｃｍ）、前腰幅5寸8分（21.924ｃｍ）、抱幅5寸6分（21.168ｃｍ）衽幅4寸（15.12ｃｍ）、合褄幅3寸8分（14.36ｃｍ）です。
身長163ｃｍ、バスト90ｃｍ、ヒップ91ｃｍ、裄が1尺8寸（68.04）ｃｍ位の方を想定してつくりました。 岩佐和裁で税込み25，000円で販売しています。
岩佐和裁のWeb shopでもご購入頂けます。
This blue baby's breath pattern kimono is made from 80% cotton, 20% linen sheeting with a width of 110cm.
The image is of casual, stylish everyday wear made from a cotton and linen blend, reminiscent of clothes that were sewn at home before the 1960s.
The collar is wide and has shoulder pads, and there is no back seam.
As the print is not dyed all the way through to the back of the fabric, the cuffs and lining (front upper only) are used in places where the back can be seen, and the hems, which tend to turn up when walking, have a wide 11cm hem stitching.
It is a kimono with a simple open-leg style tailoring.
The kimono size is length from shoulder 167.5cm, sleeve width 68.04cm, sleeve width 37.044cm, shoulder width 30.996cm, sleeve length 52.92cm, sleeve roundness 9.45cm, back width 29.106cm, front width 23.058cm, front waist width 21.924cm, shoulder width 21.168cm, collar width 15.12cm), cuff width 14.36cm.
It was made assuming a person with height 163cm, bust 90cm, hips 91cm, and sleeve width 68.04cm. It is on sale at IWASA-WASAI for 25,000 yen including tax.
It can also be purchased from WASA-WASAI's Web shop.
Shijira weave is a type of fabric that has a unique texture created by alternating taut and relaxed warp threads. A similar fabric is seersucker.
It is often used for summer clothing because it is not sticky due to its small surface area that comes into contact with the skin, is breathable, and does not wrinkle easily.
This asymmetrical single-layer women's kimono was created using vertically striped shijira weave fabric.
The body, collar, and base collar are vertical stripes, while the sleeves and collar have a horizontal stripe pattern, making it asymmetrical.
You can't tell unless you look closely; it's like ``That actor is good! He's not acting'' or ``That singer is good! He's not singing.'' It's on sale at IWASA-WASAI for 25,000 yen. There is also a light blue kimono in a different color.This is a promotional video on YouTube.
The measurements are length from shoulder 167.076cm, sleeve width 68.04cm, back width 29.106cm, front width 23.058cm.
The length of the light blue kimono is 163.3cm from shoulder.
It was made for someone who is 163cm tall, with a bust 81cm, hips 90cm, and a sleeve width of 68.04cm.
I made a women's single-layer kimono using French linen fabrics of different colors, rose lavender and blue-gray.
The upper part of this kimono is rose lavender and the lower part is blue-gray, while the lower part is blue-gray and rose lavender, with the sleeves and collar in the same color as the body.
This kimono, which looks like a checkered pattern, is woven with 60-count linen thread and weighs 700g, making it a very light and soft kimono.
There is a pocket at the hem of the upper part, so if you use this as a landmark when putting it on, you won't accidentally wear it left-front.
Since this kimono was made as a linen yukata, the collar of the lower part is open so that a collar stiffener can be inserted.
The back is sewn with a lining and shoulder pads of the same fabric are attached. Both colors match the outer fabric.
The hem width is 7.56cm, so up to 6.426cm you can lengthen the length just by using the hem.
Regarding the width of the kimono where the sleeves are attached, the shoulder width and back width of this kimono are the same, 29cm.
If the width of the fabric is about 37.044cm, it is common to make the sleeve width 35cm and the width wider 3.78cm from the waist opening to make the shoulder width 33cm.
When comparing a kimono where the width has been wider 3.78cm up to the shoulder peak with a kimono with the same shoulder width and back width, the kimono with the same shoulder width and back width will be 1.47cm narrower.
When the width is narrowed this much, I think there will also be a change in the adjustment around the chest.
This asymmetrical kimono is made for a person who is 163cm tall, with a bust of 81cm and hips of 90cm. The measurements of the kimono are 163cm in length from the shoulder, 68cm in sleeve width, 29cm in back width, and 23cm in front width.
The fabric is washed linen woven with 60-count thread.
The fabric was washed and shrunk before being cut and sewn with polyester thread, so it can be washed at home.
The body and sleeves are reinforced with bar tacks.
My impression after making this kimono is that it stretches easily because it was washed and shrunk before being sewn, and to put it in a positive way, it is a soft kimono that fits the body well.
When measuring the dimensions, just pulling it a little makes it 0.756cm to 1.134cm longer in length and wider in width.
This kimono was made with yukata in mind, so I deliberately ignored the idea of layering a juban with a kimono or haori.
Of course, I tried to sew it accurately by making precise stitches.
Also, if you wash it at home, there may be some deviation in the measurements.
This kimono is not suitable for people who are very concerned about that.
One feature of this kimono is that, although it is a one-piece kimono, the colors are inverted at the boundary between the inner hem and the back seam, so it looks like a checkered kimono.
I call it an asymmetrical kimono, as it is asymmetrical from top to bottom and left to right.
I created it with the image of casual, stylish linen everyday clothing that has the feel of something that would have been sewn at home before the 1960s.
It is on sale at IWASA-WASAI for 28,000 yen including tax. You can also purchase it from IWASA-WASAI's Web shop.
Kimono with a monster cat change pattern. 妖怪猫変化の着物
妖怪猫変化の浴衣は洋服地のプリント柄で造りました。まだ仕立てていませんが妖怪猫美人さんの生地も買いました。
プリント柄の多くは表面と裏面がはっきりしていて着装すると浴衣にした場合裏面が袖口とか上前の衽と裾から見えやすいです。
そこで袖口には袖口布を上前の衽には裏衽布を縫い付けて裾返しのくけ幅を3寸（11.34ｃｍ）と太くして表面が覗く様にしました。
水通しをしてから仕立てたので縮みにくです。 25,000円で岩佐和裁で販売しています。
9月30日までにPayPayをご利用されると3％のクーポンが獲得出来ます。
I made the Yokai Cat Transformation Yukata using a Western-style print pattern. I haven't sewn it yet, but I also bought Yokai Cat Beauty fabric.
Many print patterns have a clear front and back, so when worn as a yukata, the back is easily visible from the cuffs, front collar, and hem.
So I sewed cuff fabric to the cuffs and lining fabric to the front collar, and made the hem turnout sewn 3 sun (11.34 cm) wide so that the front can be seen.
I washed it before sewing it, so it is less likely to shrink. It is on sale at Iwasa Japanese Dressmaking for 25,000 yen.
If you use PayPay by September 30th, you can get a 3% coupon.
I am a Malaysian girl who is quite obsessed with clothes, particularly cultural and traditional clothing and alternative fashion (though you'd never guess just looking at me).
